Attempt on Mt Kangchenjunga
Ascent route followed
to attempt to summit
the Kangchenjunga
 
One of the most difficult stretches, just before reaching Camp I.
 

Ascent

     As we waited at the basecamp for the storm to cease, we established some live transmissions with Spanish TV channels. A month later, having put landmarks on the Yalung's glacier carrying 30kg packs, we arrived at real basecamp (Apache tomb).

     Though there was more snow every day, we could signpost the route to Camp I (6200m). On April 4th, weather became better and three days later we could already sleep at 7300m and we left the ice wall equipped. Early in the morning, we decided to go for the summit, but our bodies were not acclimatized yet. We climbed up very slowly. I retreated at 7900m. Jesús did a last effort: at 8300m he began to have headaches and he decided to turn back.

     We had to wait once more. We met the Italian Fausto di Stefani, who also came to the Kangchenjunga. The 30th, we reached Camp II again: an avalanche had buried everything (tent, food, materials...). We carried another tent and food to ascend at 7300m. A landslide under my feet frightened me to death. We laid 400m fixed-ropes to climb safely. When we arrived at 7300m, we could check that the other tent we had there with some gear had blown off, a good reason for us to be compelled to retreat. Despite all, we left as satisfied as if we had summitted.


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