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New Techniques
As we said, the second favorable condition would arrive from technology:
The main problem would be the acclimatization to altitude. To be as fit as possible in order to do a hard physical work at 8000m in height and to be able to breath in an atmosphere poor in oxygen requires always a very specific training. Until then, the classic concept of high ascent with stock camps compelled to move up slowly. So, when alpinists made them ready for a summit push, their bodies had spent several days subjected to the progressive attrition caused by height. Under these conditions, the human body loses millions of red corpuscles and nearly two liters of water every day. Headaches, sicknesses, and general malaise appear shortly after deteriorating the physical condition and reduce opportunities to summit. However, from the eighties on, lightweight expeditions have demonstrated that it is much better to go faster, to take a lightweight equipment, to summit in short time, and to go back quickly at low height to recuperate, so that the organism avoids suffering the great attrition caused by long permanence at altitude. The team targeted to overcome this challenge, developed an altitude acclimatization programme specially adapted to the physical response of their own bodies. The efficiency of this progamme was verified by the team in the Aconcagua summit and also during another ascent of Everest, in the same environment where their actual goals are located. |
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